![]() ![]() Silicone caulking forms a strong, tight seal that doesn’t wash away easily.Apr 3, 2020 Use the caulk to seal the exposed drain area. In case you find it challenging to reach the underside area of the tub drainage pipe, then your best option will be silicone caulking. How do you remove a shower drain surround? How do you replace a shower drain O ring? ![]() In most cases, the gasket slides over this pipe with the cone side up. There will be a pipe sticking straight up from the base that the gasket fits onto. Insert a rubber cone gasket between the tank and the base. Pipe threads should not be sealed with putty. Should I use plumbers putty with a rubber gasket for bathtub drain?Īlthough putty is suitable to prevent any leaks, it’s better not to use it for a tub drain. How do you remove a PVC shower drain flange? Which way does the gasket go under the sink? How do you remove a shower drain with no screws? How do you remove an old shower drain flange? It goes over the drain insert before threading the insert into the elbow portion of the drain line, also called the drain waste shoe or ell.26 Sept 2017 On the top of the tub, use putty and under the tub, use the gasket.23 Sept 2021Ī thick rubber gasket completes the seal on the underside of the tub. If the gasket is installed on top of your tub and is too hefty, it will create a barricade around your drain. It should not be used to seal anything that is subjected to strong water pressure. Be aware that the seal provided by the gasket is not really meant to be totally watertight like the drain is, it's not meant to be submerged, it's there for incidental overfill protection.Should I use gasket or plumbers putty on tub drain? Unhook the wire from below and remove, and you are done. Remove the screw and install the overflow plate (the wire should lay where the overflow ports on the bottom of the plate are). Now use the wire to grip the bottom edge of the shoe to maintain pressure, have your helper hold it. When the gasket is in the right position pull back on the screw to hold the gasket in position between the horn and tub wall. Manipulate the gasket with your free hand, using tools if you have to, until it is positioned properly (you may have to jam it in a bit). My technique for this is to install a plate screw into the horn so you have something to grab to apply pressure to the new gasket as you slide it into place (the screw will also prevent the new gasket from falling behind the tub if you drop it). Get a helper too, unless you have 3 arms and hands. Get a piece of slim stiff wire about 8" long and bent in a "j" shape on one end and keep it handy. There is always a bit of "give" on the overflow pipe, which helps, but try not to move it too much or you risk compromising the connection to the waste tee below (if it is the type with a slip-joint connection, many are glued plastic). Remove the overflow plate and take a look, you should be able to pull out the old gasket with a combination of long tools and needle-nose pliers (I use a hemostat- see picture). ![]() They can be replaced without ripping out the tub. I prefer the foam rubber because you can get a decent squish on them and they will conform to irregularities on the back side of cast iron tubs (sometimes the porcelain glaze is slopped a bit back there, sometimes the casting is rough).ĭo not attempt to smear caulk around it, it won't work. I have seen them made of both solid rubber and foam rubber. The flat side mates with the overflow horn (the piece directly behind the hole) and the angled side mates with the backside of the tub, fat part down to match the slope of the tub wall. For common bathtubs the correct overflow gasket should be wedge shaped with a flat side and an angled side. ![]()
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